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At present it doesn't seem like it is charging to full capacity with the buck converter. Could also just be the battery level monitor. We shall see.

BMS

Previously I had used the following BMS which has separate charge and power connections with a large input voltage. This bms will allow me to remove the buck converter. I will however have to reconfigure my battery to a 2S3P configuration which I had previously believed was an issue....

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2S 2-3A 5-8.4V Red
Size: 62 x 26 x 6.9mm
Charging Voltage range: 8.40-8.45V ± 0.05V
Over-discharge Voltage range: 4.6-5.1V ± 0.05V
Maximum operating current: 2-3A
Maximum instantaneous current: 4-6A
Working temperature: -40 ~ +50°C
Resistance: less than 45mΩ

Wiring

Using 2S BMS

Using Buck/Boost Converter

I opted to use a buck boost converter. Tested it out and it holds the voltage steady with varying input voltage. Seems like it is the best option.

Buck/Boost Converter

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0CCHPPKW4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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XL6009 buck boost converter

• With automatic voltage boosting and bucking function.
• ⚡【Input Voltage】：3.8~32V.
• ⚡【Output Voltages】：1.25~35V.
• ⚡【Input Current】：3A (max), no load 18mA (5V input, 8V output, no load less than 18mA. The higher the voltage, the higher the no load current.)
• ⚡【Conversion efficiency】：<94% (the higher the differential pressure, the lower the efficiency)

Wiring

Using Buck/Boost Converter

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Additionnel Changes

I also cut the power toggle trace since I always seem to accidentally hit this. When powering on with the switch, the unit defaults to always power on.

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I also ended up replacing the speaker connector since it broke apart.

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References